Yes! You bought your vintage masterpiece.
The furniture we sell is often already over 50 years in use. Taking care of it in the right way will easily allow for another 50 years. How to do this?

Every construction material demands it's own care and attention. Below you'll find a set of care rules and guidelines for the most commonly used materials in mid-century modern. In any case if you are not completely sure about your product of the needed care then please do contact us!

Wood veneer  >  oiled
Oiled veneer, recognizable by an untreated low gloss can be easily maintained by the use of a nourishing furniture oil specific for the particular wood type. HG is a brand we use but there are others also, always make sure to buy a rosewood oil for rosewood and teak oil for teak, makes sense does it! Oil your furniture once every six months and you're all set. Do pay attention to hot or moisture and combinations thereof, such can easily stain oiled wood. Thus never put your flower pot or hot cup of coffee directly on oiled wood. The stains because of it will be very difficult to remove.

Wood veneer  >  coated whith acrylic lacquer or shellac
Veneer coated with an acrylic lacquer or shellac in gloss or silk gloss is more robust and has a glossier appearance. Cleaning is easy with a normal dry or slightly moist cloth. Remember to never use abrasive materials on these finishes. Neither use silicone based oils for that matter. Dull spots on coated veneer are quite impossible to remove. I you happen to have a dull spot on your shellac touch it up with a little bit of oil.

Veneer is in no condition scratch resistant! A hard or abrasive object like a keychain or coffee mug can easily leave scratch marks. The darker the wood, the more visible those scratches will be. On the other hand it does provide your furniture with the coveted patina of age. So who cares really ;-)  

Solid wood
Most of the seating, legs, ribs and edgebands on chests are made out of solid wood. Wood shows the frills of nature, crevaces, knots, year growth rings, everything we like about wood. Under the influence of UV radiation even the darkest wood types will discolourise to lighter tints.

On top of that solid wood (more than veneer) is dimensionally active as a function of moisture content and temperature. Do not place your furniture right next to your heating system and if it is close up the frequency to once per quarter of oiling it as it will dry out faster. For the really difficult to remove dirt like paint drops one can use a fine steel wool (METALO 00000). Regular cleaning just with a dry cloth please.

In this category one can find skai (artificial) leathers, vinyl, naugahyde, real leather, and an array of fabrics.

Skai leather
Skai leather is one of the most commonly used upholstery material in midcentury modern designs. Most common form is a vinyl type top layer calendered on top of a woven or non woven substrate. In time skai leather can rigidify and turn crumbly brittle and form cracks. This is non recoverable and best path forward is then to the reupholster. In all other cases the skai leather can be easily cleaned with a mild cleaner, the HG products are a good option.

Genuine leather
Real leather, like full aniline leather, semi anilineleather, painted leather and Nubuck needs more care. These leather types are best maintained with regular waxing of nourishing oils. This keeps the leather subtle and prevents a dried out leather. Even wear marks can be repared and multiple suppliers have a whole repair product assortiment to choose from. We like ColourLock. 

For fabric covered furniture there are cleaning sets in the form of a spray or wash by HG among others. On the HG website detailed information can be found on all their cleaning and maintenance products.